Julian Cassell's DIY Blog - Latest Comments

Re: Decking screws

Julian Cassell — Fri, 28 Sep 2012 12:12:29 -0000

Hi Spax team,

It's my pleasure - I love good fixings, and more than happy to spread the word when I find them!

Best,

Julian

Re: Decking screws

SPAX International — Tue, 25 Sep 2012 09:56:03 -0000

Hi Julian!
We're very happy that you like our SPAX so much! We can
reassure you: Our SPAX are and will be produced in Germany (Ennepetal) and we
can guarantee you a very high quality.
Whenever you build new projects with
SPAX, please let us know and visit us on www.facebook.com/SPAX.
Best wishes from Ennepetal,
your SPAX Team

Re: Building a shed

Jon — Mon, 17 Sep 2012 17:42:39 -0000

Thanks, that should work! As it happens, I think I now need to move my base left a bit, away from the garage, as I did not take into account the added width of the roof itself! Lucky I used those plastic recycled bases!

Re: Building a shed

Julian Cassell — Sat, 15 Sep 2012 14:20:34 -0000

Hi Jon,

Strangely enough, had a similar problem in my own garden. The best option is to get the shed walls up etc. then cut and fit the first piece of felt to one of the roof sheets, but only tacking it securely in place along the eaves batten. You then lift it in position with at least one more pair of hands helping, to make sure you don't damage the felt, as it will try slipping and tearing.

You can now nail the roof sheet in place, along the gable edges as normal, before securing the felt along these edges. Obviously, the eaves is sorted, so you then just crack on with the other roof sheet, and the rest of the felt.

Anyway, that's the system I used, and it's still there 8 years later.

Hope this helps, and let me know if you need any more advice.

Best, wishes,

Julian

Re: Building a shed

Jon — Sat, 15 Sep 2012 11:08:55 -0000

Hi I am in the process of building a shed (got the base down!). But I am building next to my garage and cannot think how I am going to get the roof felt on once the shed it up. Any suggestions on added felt in a tight space?

Re: Condensation and mould

Jackie @ up the path — Tue, 31 Jul 2012 08:23:01 -0000

Good informative post there. I used to have serious condensation issues in my house until I was given the simple advice that you have given of just ventilating rooms by opening windows etc. Simple advice that works...worth sharing!

Re: Fitting a casement stay lock

upvc windows — Fri, 20 Jul 2012 14:48:19 -0000

If you are intending to use the type of lock that screws to the window, the following test is a rough guide to help you to decide how many you will require: with the window closed, press each opening corner. If there is any movement, fit a suitable lock, such as a push lock (push to lock, key to open) at each corner on the opening side. If there is no movement, a lock fitted to the centre of the opening frame will suffice.

Re: Laying wood and laminate floors

Julian Cassell — Mon, 16 Jul 2012 04:04:40 -0000

Hi Mark,

Always tricky in hallways with doors either side. You need as much 'wriggle' room everywhere, and therefore I would almost always have all the skirtings and architraves off in this situation.

Especially if your particular floor requires joining at 45 degrees before knocking in place. You can try to slide boards once in position which is another technique to adjust where to make joins - this often helps.

With the doors at each end, you should find it easier as they are only the short ends going into the doorway, therefore you don't have to span the whole entrance with a single long board.

Difficult to help much more without seeing the specifics, but removing all architraves and skirtings really would make life much easier, and that would be my starting point.

Re: Laying wood and laminate floors

Mark — Sat, 14 Jul 2012 17:55:18 -0000

I want to lay engineered flooring in a hallway with 7 doors, some of which are opposite each other. I can do what you suggest in steps 19&20 on one side, but obviously on the opposite side I won't be able to slide the floor far enough away to fit under the architrave on the second side. Any hints or tips for this please. Also I have two doors which will be end on to the run, how do I get under the architrave with these?

Re: Green lawnmowers

Garden Blogger — Fri, 06 Jul 2012 05:04:59 -0000

I agree with you there, simple almost always is best. Like the look of this lil baby...always good to keep it green when possible!

Re: Garden storage

Rose Merritt — Thu, 28 Jun 2012 07:52:19 -0000

I must admit, I love an afternoon of a weekend spent doing some DIY, and objects such as sheds almost come across as a challenge. One warning that I must hand out to other enthusiasts is to check that you have all of the components before starting - nothing more infuriating than not being given any washers, or running out of bolts etc!

Re: Changing bath taps

speedfit pipe — Mon, 25 Jun 2012 22:52:10 -0000

The bath taps are an easy item to install. You may need a special pipe wrench or screw remover if the taps have been on for decades. Also, bath taps occasionally strip at the threads and won't turn off adequately. This issue can be fixed if necessary. Bath taps come in single or mixer type. Make certain to measure the pipe so you get the correct size tap.

Re: 10 Exterior home maintenance tips

Loft conversions Bristol — Wed, 20 Jun 2012 10:32:32 -0000

Great post on some easily neglected areas. I need to clear out my guttering but I'm waiting for a sunny weekend - I have a feeling I may be waiting some time!

Re: Buying screwdriver bits

Tim Carr — Tue, 19 Jun 2012 11:58:54 -0000

I got a bit obsessed with keeping as wide a variety as possible of screwdriver bits a while back... very sad, haha!

Re: Laying wood and laminate floors

Julian Cassell — Tue, 19 Jun 2012 03:16:36 -0000

Depending on what exact floor type you have, you may have to make small adjustments to the principles shown above.

Some floors require a whole line of boards to be connected short ends first (at 45 degrees), before the whole line is then connected to the previous line of boards. This may, or may not, be the case with yours - check the manufacturer's guidelines as they should give you the precise fitting instructions.

Hope this helps,

Best,

Julian

Re: Laying wood and laminate floors

no way — Mon, 18 Jun 2012 18:47:56 -0000

can NOT get step 15 to work since the short ends need to be inserted at a 45 degree angle like in step six. Been trying to tap the board into place all day no give at all. please elaborate.

Re: Buying screwdriver bits

Ed Oliver — Thu, 31 May 2012 06:15:35 -0000

Great information Julian! You are right, for the occasional DIY use, a cheaper alternative is always a great idea, and the X-Line sets that you recommend are good for all round Tool bits. Wera is also a great brand- we're always impressed with the quality.

Re: How to wallpaper a chimney breast

Julian Cassell — Sun, 20 May 2012 05:11:10 -0000

Hi Chris,

Glad you like the layout, and feel free to use the information (I imagine you have to credit articles in your bibliography anyway). Hope all goes well with your Diploma.

Best of luck.

Julian

Re: How to wallpaper a chimney breast

Chris — Sat, 19 May 2012 19:23:59 -0000

Hi, i'm just about to take my practical in L2 P&D City & Guilds Diploma, your lay out of proposed wallpaper application is great and if you don't mind i wish to use it in my post plan report etc.
Your guidelines have given me some great input and i will continue to read your blogs, thank you, i'm a really "has to be perfect" type guy and these days its rare to find someone who actually loves what he does, and that my friend is the only place where you'll find perfection.

Re: How to wallpaper a chimney breast

Julian Cassell — Tue, 15 May 2012 18:25:59 -0000

Totally up to you really, as it is a matter for personal taste - both options can look very effective. However, most people (myself included) tend to paint the area above the picture rail the same colour as the ceiling. If you do decide to paper above the rail, make sure that the pattern aligns correctly with the pattern below - which can be trickier than it sounds!

Good luck!

Re: How to wallpaper a chimney breast

Khaddon17 — Tue, 15 May 2012 16:20:55 -0000

if you've got a picture rail on your chimney breast, would you use patterned above & below, or just below?

Re: Fitting an external draught excluder

Julian Cassell — Sun, 22 Apr 2012 06:14:58 -0000

Hi John,

Thanks for your comment. The seal is the 'Stormguard Metal Around Door Seal - White' Part No. - 01BS005. There is also an aluminium colour option. You can get them in B&Q, amongst other places.

Best,

Julian

Re: Fitting an external draught excluder

John — Sat, 21 Apr 2012 13:48:12 -0000

Have just read your article on external door draught excluder, it looks exactly like the type i require, can you tell me the make and type details please.
Great article with photo's. Many thanks, john@huttonja.freeserve.co.uk

Re: Mythic paint

Julian Cassell — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 04:01:41 -0000

Hi Andy,

Interesting point about the curing, and although I always feel that you can't start judging a paint in terms of how hardwearing it is, until it has fully cured, I had never thought about any sheen level changes in the curing process? Standing in front of the gloss today - yes and it is about 7 days after finishing strangely enough - maybe it is slightly glossier.

With the knotting, I'm pretty confident the two coat recommendation will work, but because the paint is so 'new', I guess time will tell.

Thanks for dropping by,

Best,

Julian

Re: Mythic paint

acmasterpainter — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 18:50:12 -0000

Good review, I agree with almost everything you found. Mythic is a taste of the future.

One point to remember is that although acrylic paint dries quickly, it takes 7 days to fully cure and so you cant really judge Mythic sheen till a week after it has been painted. And it is recommended to spot prime knots and stains with 2 coats, so to be safe, let the first coat dry hard say 4 hours, so you cant reactivate the stain, then second prime. But yes, BIN doesnt leak!